Why Are Hawaiians So Different from Mainlanders?

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Laird Hamilton

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Laird Hamilton is a big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and co-founder, with his wife Gabrielle Reece, of XPT Training (Extreme Performance Training).

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Yeah. How long have you been living in Hawaii? Uh, well, my mom took me from San Francisco when I was six months old. Whoa. So, wow. Pretty much, it was only a technicality that I wasn't born there, which actually worked against me because, you know, when you're not born then, when you're not born there, then you're not from there. So they're like, Oh, you're not born here. Right. And you're like, Oh yeah. But I, I've been here since I was, you know, since I can remember. So let's just put it that way. Right. My memory actually worked. They still hold it against you. The six months that you weren't here. Oh yeah. We missed you bro. Six months. Where were you? Yeah. You weren't peeling pants. You come out of your mother here in this, in the state, but, but yeah, since I was a little kid, I mean, I, I, my mom took me, uh, I was born in San Francisco and she took me when I was a few months old. I have a theory about people from Hawaii. There's a groundedness that they seem to exhibit that is universal. It's almost, you're very rarely find completely frivolous, dopey people that live in Hawaii. They're not, I mean, I'm sure you find some people that are not that smart, but there's a groundedness that so many of them have because they're on a volcano. Yeah. Well, and you know, it's interesting that you talk about that because yesterday we were having a conversation about what is that, right? And we have a couple of terms. One of them is mana, which is the power from the land. Another one is Aloha, which is our kind of a spirit of how people act, uh, from Hawaii, but I believe it has a lot to do with Islanders. I think Islanders have that and it has a lot to do with, uh, it has a lot to do with the ocean being around the ocean that the ocean surrounding you and the ocean is the most conductive substance on earth, so elect electrically. And there's all this thing. So you get influenced by this, you know, and I think energetically the nature is so powerful. I think it puts us into a, there's a certain kind of humility that you have when you're in that you're next to a volcano, that's 14,000 foot and you got a 2000 foot waterfall and you got a giant wave. I mean, this is stuff that kind of goes, oh yeah, we're just little ants. We're just little specs and we don't. It's humbling, but it's also inspiring and energizing. Yeah. Gives you power, right? The mon, the mana. Yeah. I've always wondered why people that live in beach communities, they're so chill. Like I've wondered, is that because of just the humility that you get when you're just looking the ocean? You're looking at the moment. Have you ever seen that book? No, it's called the blue mind. Um, the guy's pretty interesting and he does a study of why we gravitate towards being on the beach, why all the most expensive real estate is beach front. And that's something about when we stare at the ocean, they did all these studies where the, it just totally lights the brain up that our whole, something about the horizon and about the ocean itself that, that affects our whole wellbeing. And, and part of it, we don't even know why, but we're just drawing like why, you know, why is, why are we drawn there? Why do we, you know, and it has, it has a, you know, an effect on our system. I wonder if that's because we evolved to be close to the water because that's where the bounty is where you can get fish and Well, we evolved from the water. That true.